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Retinol – an ingredient of advanced care

Golden leaves of trees, morning fog, lower and lower temperatures - these are sure signs that autumn is approaching. From the perspective of conscious, well-thought-out care, this is an extraordinary and important period, and it is no coincidence that experts in the art of skin care call it the retinol season. Although the use of vitamin A derivatives is not 100% determined by the seasons and weather conditions, due to the fact that they sensitize to solar radiation, this is when they are most often used in care. 

Advanced forms of this substance - such as well-stabilized retinal and retinaldehyde or being relatively new on the market hydrogenated retinol – stimulate the skin and contribute to achieving great anti-aging effects. They can also be successfully used in warm, sunny months, as long as the treatment is carried out correctly, the concentrations and forms are appropriately delicate, and scrupulous sun protection is used. The care base should be selected to strengthen the epidermis, soothe and soothe it. An absolute contraindication is mechanically damaged, disturbed and irritated epidermis. 

Retinoids require time and appropriate strategy, they do not forgive spontaneous outbursts. Opening a package of a serum or cream with a high concentration of retinoids overnight and applying large amounts of them overnight may result in irritation, deterioration of the skin or discoloration. They also do not tolerate carelessness - the habit of using UV protection should therefore be developed before reaching for vitamin A derivatives. They also require concentration, and treatments based on them - especially when other active ingredients appear in the care - are worth writing down and sticking to in advance. agreed plan.

Effects of care with retinoids

The first few or a dozen or so weeks of the action of retinoids can be compared to the action of popular acids - mainly AHA, but also BHA or PHA. The skin becomes visibly smoother, brighter and more even, and over time superficial discolorations begin to disappear. The combination of retinoids with anti-acne ingredients or ingredients that comprehensively combat persistent depigmentation makes the effects even faster. Their presence strengthens, complements and intensifies most treatments aimed at improving the condition of the skin. Approximately in the third month of regular use, the stimulated skin begins to produce collagen more intensively - this is the period when the real anti-aging effect is manifested. These active ingredients are the only substances used in cosmetics that actually eliminate the signs of aging.

 

Planning a treatment with retinol

This begs the question: why not use vitamin derivatives all year round? Why go through the entire process of getting your skin used to it and introducing a new active substance when you can keep your skin in this wonderful condition for years or even decades? The answer is simple - you can, but not everyone is able to meet the requirements of using retinoids for a long time, which force you to limit or completely eliminate sunbathing and make intensive treatments at a cosmetologist or dermatologist difficult (including all forms of needling or deep acid peels). 

It should be taken into account that too aggressive, long-term treatment - without taking care of the vessels and the immunity of the epidermis - may result in effects opposite to those expected. It makes the skin look worse, causing persistent, bothersome erythema and sensitization, and sometimes irritation. The mild base and delicate form of the vitamin A derivative substance provide great results - you need to resist the urge to increase the concentration and give yourself some time. Dazzling effects will come by themselves.

Short retinoid treatments – are they effective?

Taking a step back -  If you choose shorter treatments (at least 3 months, but no longer than 9 months), you can also expect spectacular results. Excluding the summer months full of trips and the greatest sun exposure, it is worth considering the autumn period as a time for adaptation, gentle introduction of retinoids, winter for a prudent increase in concentrations (the skin producing collagen is already thicker, less sensitive and more resistant), and spring - for consolidating the effects. and possibly adding other active substances. Summer then becomes a period of rest for the skin, and vitamin A derivatives can be successfully replaced withvitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid, which complements the annual program, having an antioxidant effect and also, to some extent, stimulating the skin to regenerate. 

 

Forms of retinoids – which ones are best to choose?

The way to the best results of retinoid-based treatment is time, planning and the appropriate, delicate form of the cosmetic. There are different types available in the market. The least noteworthy are the esters: retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, etc. Their biological activity is very low, and although they may be valuable ingredients in regenerating and nutritional creams, they have nothing to do with the anti-aging and anti-aging effects of retinoids.

Pure retinol is most effective and efficient, but requires some skill in using it or surrounding it in the formulation with soothing, strengthening and soothing substances. When using it, it is worth starting with really low concentrations, applying it twice a week and gradually working up to using it every other day or every day. It requires the greatest attention and careful selection of cosmetics. 

Retinal or retinaldehyde is a more modern form, often found in dermocosmetics, in pharmacy or professional brands. It is very effective and less troublesome to introduce than retinol. It requires an excellent technological solution to ensure its stability - not only through the refined composition of the final cosmetic, but also through its packaging. All this makes it quite expensive and requires excellent facilities from the manufacturer. 

However, research is still ongoing and new forms of vitamin A derivatives are constantly appearing on the market. They are combined with antioxidants to create hybrid molecules, such as retinyl retinoate, which is made from a combination of traditional retinol and retinoic acid. Researchers use encapsulation techniques that protect the active ingredients from decay or allow their gradual release.

The Lynia brand reaches for hydrogenated retinol (Hydrogenated Retinol). In its oily form, it easily combines with light emollients such as squalane and allows you to create comfortable oil serums and creams. This new generation form is very stable, resistant to sunlight, temperature and oxidation. This allows you to choose simple, recycling-friendly packaging in which to store the finished cosmetic. Such retinol has a low irritation potential, very high effectiveness, and additionally moisturizes and stimulates collagen fibers. Thanks to its mild action, it allows for long treatments without fear of sensitization.

It is worth noting that hydrogenated retinol is a substance that is also not the cheapest. Its high price is the main cost of the final product - so you should take into account the fact that creams and serums with high-quality retinoids will always be exclusive products. As a cosmetic brand that listens to customers' needs, we also took into account the price factor, because the desire to increase retinol concentration during several weeks of treatment often generates additional costs related to the need to purchase two or even three separate cosmetics containing this valuable ingredient.

This so-called insight was our guiding principle when designing the new line of ampoules. Their optimal 5 ml capacity also means convenience in switching to higher concentrations and lower initial cost of treatment, and the intermediate concentration of 0.7% fills a gap on the Polish market of retinol cosmetics. This is currently the safest solution for those who plan to use retinoids for the first time. 

Planning a home treatment with retinoids

What substances and what steps and solutions are worth introducing when planning a treatment based on retinoids? A gentle base turns out to be key - it is worth giving up reusable pads and cloths, and replacing potentially irritating make-up removal pads and micellar fluid with cleansing oils or balms. Instead of intensively degreasing washing pastes or aggressive gels, it is better to use light foams and emulsions to take care of the hydrolipid layer.

Especially in the first 3 months, when vitamin A derivatives have an acid-like effect, additional exfoliation is not needed. Later, it is recommended to discontinue mechanical peelings for good and switch to enzymes (when necessary, they can be used spot-wise - only on the chin or nose wings). Multidimensional moisturization and protection of the epidermis play an important role, so it is worth looking for it in cosmeticsceramides, sugars orstem cells andpeptides. It is an excellent addition to your care as it has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant propertiesAsiatic pennywort, and over time also PHA acids.

If you want to further enhance the anti-aging effect of the treatment, it is a good idea to consider including it in your care planpeptide sets. At the stage when the skin tolerates retinoids perfectly, it is worth adding azaleic acid or azeloglycine to direct the action towards working with rosacea, with vascularized marks or post-inflammatory discolorations. Salicylic acid used twice a week in the area with blackheads or contaminated porespreparation with niacinamide in the morning will help you get the best remedy for tight and well-groomed pores. 

The potential of vitamin A derivatives is huge - they can be used to deal with virtually every challenge that the skin poses. They show noticeable effects in each of these fields, and Lynia products are designed to provide excellent and safe solutions to the widest possible audience.

 

Fall-winter treatment step by step:

1-12. week 

  • mild care base + habit of using SPF,

  • application to clean skin twice a week, in the evening. After a few minutes, you can apply a moisturizing cosmetic.

  • after 3-4 weeks every other day (possibly - after another 2 weeks every day),

  • recommended introduction of substances such as sugars, ceramides, stem cells, peptides, niacinamide and centella asiatica (as well as salicylic acid spot - maximum 2 times a week).

3-6. month 

  • gradual increase in concentration,

  • Possible inclusion of PHA acids and azelaic acid in regular care.

> 6 months 

  • maintaining the achieved results. If a break is planned for the summer months, gradually replace vitamin A derivatives with ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

Retinol all year round? Yes, but low concentrations, i.e. 0.3%

In the period from autumn to early spring (while maintaining UV protection in the form of a cream with a minimum SPF 30 filter during the day): can be used 1-2 times a day - in the morning and in the evening.

In the summer (while maintaining UV protection in the form of a cream with a minimum SPF 30 filter during the day): it is recommended to use it no more than 2-3 times a week.

Important: The product with retinol should not be used by pregnant women and breastfeeding mothers. When applying the cosmetic, avoid the area around the eyes, nostrils and lips. It is not recommended to combine it with cosmetics containing acids. Remember not to use on irritated skin or in case of hypersensitivity to any of the product ingredients.

 

GOLDEN ADVICE – in case of skin irritation, peeling or any doubts, it is worth taking a step back, reducing the frequency of using retinoids or returning to a lower concentration. You can also replace the product with one rich in protective substances.

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